The Surprising Mistakes New Poultry Keepers Make
- Donna Weekes
- Mar 23
- 13 min read
The practice of keeping backyard chickens is on the rise. An increasing number of individuals are exploring the idea of starting their own flocks for a fresh supply of eggs and of course, pets.
Starting a poultry venture can be a thrilling experience, but it comes with its own set of challenges. Many new poultry keepers unknowingly fall into common traps that lead to disappointment and stress.
A significant error that both novice and experienced backyard chicken keepers often make is relying on social media for guidance with their challenges. Online platforms are rife with misinformation. I have dedicated time to researching and comprehending the needs of this species for optimal thriving. It's crucial to seek answers from the correct sources like poultry scientists and nutritionists or credible social media influencers and not rely on Online platforms for information.
My goal is to educate people on the most effective ways to maintain the health of these food-producing animals using the best available methods. By identifying these pitfalls, you can create a fulfilling and successful chicken keeping journey.
Failing to Research Chicken Breeds
Choosing the right breed of chicken is essential for any new poultry keeper. Each breed has unique characteristics, including temperament and egg production. For instance, if you live in a colder climate, choosing a breed with a pea comb. The comb is smaller, closer to the head and will have less chance of frostbite in cold temperatures. Slimmer breeds like Whiting True Blues or Ameraucana both have pea combs but the Whiting True Blue generally has higher egg production. Both breeds are a lighter bird, with less muscle mass, feed ratio to egg output is greater than some other breeds.
Conversely, breeds like the Orpington or Copper Marans have more muscle mass to withstand colder climates but possess straight combs, making them more prone to frostbite. A Wyandotte is a suitable choice for beginners, as they have smaller rose combs and also have more muscle mass. These breeds with greater muscle mass will consume slightly more feed than lighter breeds.
Cochins are a very friendly, docile breed with dense feathering and feathered feet, ideal for colder temperatures. They also have a straight comb, which is more vulnerable to frostbite and they are not the most prolific layers. They are considered more of an ornamental breed.
It’s important to know whether you want chickens for meat, eggs, or companionship and select breeds that align with your goals.
Underestimating Space Requirements
Another frequent mistake among new poultry keepers is misjudging the space their flock needs. Chickens need enough room to move around, forage, and express natural behaviors.
Overcrowding can lead to stress and aggressive behavior, increasing the risk of disease. The general rule of thumb is to provide at least 2 to 3 square feet per bird in the coop but more importantly, is the amount of roost space in the coop. Plan for 12",of roost space per bird and 8 to 10 square feet in the outdoor run. For example, if you have 10 birds, you should plan for a minimum of 30 square feet in the coop and 80 square feet in the run.
The space inside a chicken coop is less important than the space in the run since chickens don't spend much time in the coop. The coop serves two purposes: for sleeping and laying eggs. All other activities should take place in the run. Construct the run as large as possible, making sure it's secured with hardware cloth to protect against predators.
Neglecting Proper Housing
A safe and secure coop is essential for your birds' health. Many novices err by opting for inadequately designed housing. It should be constructed of pine, spruce or at the very least plywood and 2x4's, avoiding the flimsy and thin wood materials often sold by large retail companies as they are not effective against predators and do not provide sufficient warmth for Canadian winters.
Additionally, they are not spacious enough to comfortably accommodate more than two birds.
Avoid using plastic housing because chickens require a dry environment, and plastic retains moisture and lacks the breathability of wood.
A well-designed coop should ensure adequate air circulation, with windows that open on as many sides as possible. Chickens are more comfortable in cold weather and find it difficult to cope with heat. Therefore, proper airflow in the summer, facilitated by open windows, is essential. The term "ventilation" is often emphasized by backyard chicken keepers, a buzz word mentioned on social media groups from the commercial poultry industry, where thousands of birds are housed in one building and ventilation is vital for their survival. Unlike commercial setups, backyard chicken keepers do not confine hundreds of chickens in a coop all day, allowing them to accumulate droppings without access to the outdoors or at least a run.
Install industrial fans with enclosed motors to shield it from the dust produced by chickens during new feather regrowth. This additional airflow can be crucial for survival on a hot summer night.
Coop Interior
Over the years, I have experimented with systems to maintain a healthy coop while reducing the need for extensive chores, such as mucking it out. We have installed catchment systems known as droppings boards beneath the roosts to collect the significant droppings from the previous night, facilitating easy cleanup.
A droppings board is basically a shelf/table about waist-high with the roosts sitting about 18" above the droppings board. We supply a ramp so the birds can access the roosts.
Tools consist of:
I have also tested different materials for covering the top of the droppings board to facilitate easy cleaning, instead of leaving the plain wood exposed, and to make scraping off the droppings with the taping knife easier. Chicken feed bags are an option if you buy a brand made from more plastic-like material. I cut them open fully, use as many as needed, and staple them to the board until it's time to replace them.
I've discovered that Plaskolite Corrugated Plastic Sheets from Home Depot are the best choice. You can lift them off a few times a year, clean them with a solution (I use a bleach cleaner), scrub them, and then hose them down.
The sand scooper is intended for the occasional droppings found on the coop floor.
The sand sifter is mainly utilized in the run where more droppings gather, and when combined with the sand scooper, it makes cleaning fast and efficient. These are ideal tools when chickens do not free range or are confined to the run during bad weather.
Nest Boxes and Nesting Material
The choice of nesting material and litter type is crucial for obtaining clean eggs 99% of the time.
Plastic Nesting Pads are ideal because they cannot be easily kicked out of the nesting box by the hens, they protect eggs from breaking, and they are simple to clean if an egg does break or if they become soiled. They are also easy to wash and sanitize.
The focus isn't on the hen's comfort in the nest box; nesting material is meant to protect the egg as the hen lays it. When a hen lays an egg she squats slightly, the egg drops a few inches. The plastic nesting pads prevent the breakage of the egg.
Hens cannot feel the plastic pads due to their thick feathers. Their feet, which are scaly like alligator skin, are unaffected by the plastic pads. Eggs should always be collected clean, and if not, there may be a management issue that needs addressing.
Please Note: The nesting pads are sold in a pack of 12, which exceeds the typical requirement for a chicken coop. However, it's a more economical choice, and I prefer having extras. When they become soiled, you can soak them and replace them with a clean one.
Please refer to my blog for more information How to Collect Clean Eggs
Avoid becoming reliant on products to maintain a clean coop. Retailers of these non-essential items convince consumers that such products are necessary for the health of your chickens and their environment, but this isn't true. Save your money. Implementing the right systems is all you need to achieve this.
Diatomaceous Earth or First Saturday Lime have no business in a chickens environment. They are not healthy products for your chickens.
You keep your coop and run clean and fly free with the systems you have in place.
Droppings Boards under roosts
Plastic Nesting Pads
Sand for Litter
There are only two simple products that we use our coop and run, it's all about the systems you have in place. Save your money, you do not need products.
One of two products we make an exception for is Fresh Coop. we sprinkle a little on the droppings boards to absorb wetter droppings.
Why do we use this product? Because chickens need a dry environment to be healthy.
It's safe if the chickens consume some of it, although they usually ignore it, and it's harmless if they do.
We also like to use a product to freshen the coop. Chick' N Protect. It's a essential oil and all natural for poultry. Spray it in the coop, on roosting bars and in nest boxes. It has a nice, pleasant scent., that neutralizes odors. In addition, its also used as a natural insect repellent for flies, ticks, mosquitoes and mites. Safe to spray on the bird as well.
After a lengthy winter, a thorough spring cleaning of the coop to remove dust and cobwebs is essential, and using Chick' N Protect adds a pleasant finishing touch, leaving your coop with a fresh, clean scent.
Type of Litter Matters
Utilizing sand is the simplest form of litter to manage, offering both health benefits and cost-effectiveness. Sand works well in addition to droppings boards and plastic nesting pads to create the healthiest environment for your chickens.
Please refer to my blog Sand for Litter in the Coop and Run for more information.
Ignoring Biosecurity Measures
New poultry keepers often underestimate the importance of biosecurity. Implementing effective biosecurity measures can help prevent disease outbreaks that can devastate your flock.
This involves restricting visitor access near your birds, maintaining a clean coop, and isolating new chickens before integrating them into the flock.
The greatest threat to biosecurity in backyard flocks is bringing in mature chickens from other locations. You cannot assess a chicken's health merely by its appearance. There is a risk of underlying health issues such as respiratory diseases, which are among the most prevalent problems. A chicken might be a recovered carrier of a disease, and relocating it, which is very stressful for the bird, can trigger symptoms, potentially infecting your entire flock. New birds can also bring visible problems like mites, lice, and scaly leg mites, among others.
Backyard chicken keepers often underestimate the range of diseases existing in the poultry world. These diseases do not affect humans but can easily spread from bird to bird.
In a study, farms that adhered to strict biosecurity practices had a 50% lower rate of disease outbreaks compared to those that did not.
For more information on Biosecurity, please refer to my blog Biosecurity
Feeding Mistakes
Nutrition is a cornerstone of successful poultry keeping, yet many beginners fail to provide a balanced diet.
To ensure chickens receive a balanced diet, it is essential to feed them a nutritionally complete chicken feed only. The feed is conveniently packaged and contains all the correct balance of proteins, vitamins, and minerals to grow healthy and produce eggs efficiently. By feeding treats and extras that do not benefit laying hens, chicken keepers risk compromising their chickens health, which can eventually lead to negative consequences.
Do your chickens have ragged feathers or bald spots? There are typically two reasons for this. The first is diet; they are lacking essential nutrients they need for feather regrowth. This is often why balding occurs. The second reason is gut health. If internal parasites are present, the chickens can't absorb the nutrients they need because the parasites are consuming them.
Nutrition is the most significant concern for backyard chicken keepers, who often overlook the importance of proper poultry nutrition for laying hens. Feeding additional items, even healthy ones like fruits, vegetables, mealworms, and sunflower seeds, disrupts the balance of the essential 38 nutrients a laying hen needs to maintain a strong immune system. This balance is crucial for fighting off pathogens, preventing obesity (as chickens don't show obvious signs of being overweight), maximizing egg production, and ensuring longevity. If you consider these chickens as pets and want them to live as long as possible, it's essential to keep them healthy by feeding them correctly. This starts with providing nutritionally complete chicken feed, a side dish of oyster shells, and clean water in clean containers to ensure your chickens are as healthy as possible.
High-quality commercial feed is the perfect diet and all that they will require nutritionally.
For more information on Poultry Nutrition and how important it is, refer to my blog
Types of Feeders and Waterers for Healthier Chickens
It is recommended to always place the feeder and waterer in a covered run rather than inside the coop.
Keeping their food and water in the coop can lead to management problems, such as an increased risk of frostbite during winter because the drinker adds moisture to the air. Additionally, the coop will be more challenging to keep clean since eating is a chickens full time job, meaning they will constantly enter the coop to consume food and water, resulting in more droppings inside, which is not a best practice for a healthy coop.
Moreover, having food in the coop can attract rodents.
These two products represent the best investment you can make for your chickens. I've experimented with various feeders and waterers over the years, and nothing else matches the quality or performance of these two items.
The Grampas Feeder, a treadle plate feeder, is the top choice for feeders. Although it is not cheap, it is a worthwhile investment as it prevents rodents from accessing the feed and stops chickens from spilling food onto the ground. This feeder will pay for itself with the amount of chicken feed you save.
A heated poultry nipple drinker with detachable cord is ideal for maintaining your chickens' health, offering a fully enclosed drinker that remains clean at all times. This drinker prevents algae growth since no light can penetrate it.
For more information on Feeders and Waters refer to my blog,
Skipping Regular Health Checks
Many new poultry keepers neglect routine health checks. Regular inspections can help you catch potential health problems early.
During your routine inspections, watch for signs of illness, pests, or injuries. Research shows that flocks receiving weekly health checks experienced 30% fewer health problems than those without such checks. Proactive care is essential for keeping your birds healthy and productive.
Mites and lice are common pests that can harm your birds. If left untreated, they can cause anemia and potentially lead to death.
To manage this, enter the coop after dark with a headlamp while the chickens are roosting (they are calmer and easier to handle in the dark). Part their feathers around their vents and check for any movement. Mites are usually straw-colored and very tiny. If you see nothing, that's great; if you do see tiny bugs, then you need to treat them. The safest product to use around food-producing animals is Elector PSP. It requires no egg withdrawal and only one treatment.
Elector PSP is an essential item for your Chicken Emergency Kit, as you never know when you'll need it. One of its advantages is that it doesn't expire when not mixed with water, allowing you to keep it on hand until necessary.
Keep a Chicken Emergency Kit on hand, as you can never predict when a situation might arise.
Inadequate Flock Behavior Understanding
Understanding chicken behavior is crucial for a peaceful flock. New keepers often misinterpret social cues, leading to stress and bullying among the birds.
Chickens have a social hierarchy called the "pecking order." Disturbing this order can lead to conflict. Spend time observing your flock to identify their dynamics and ensure there’s enough space and resources for each bird.
For more information on this topic, refer to my blog Understanding Chicken Behavior
Ignoring Seasonal Changes
Poultry keepers must be prepared for seasonal changes in their chickens’ needs. Many beginners fail to adjust their care routines throughout the year.
During winter, make sure your coop is insulated and provide litter for a dry and healthy environment; I highly recommend using sand. Chickens do not require bedding material for warmth, as they roost rather than sleep on the floor. They stay warm by generating heat from their feed and fluffing up their feathers to trap warm air between their skin and feathers, similar to us using a duvet.
Chickens naturally eat more feed in colder months to regulate their body temperatures. The calories from their feed produce body heat, and the more they eat, the warmer they stay. Do not assume that chickens need cracked corn or other carbs for warmth. Cracked corn lacks nutritional value and can lead to obesity, causing issues like a prolapsed vent. One calorie of their nutritionally complete chicken feed which contains all 38 nutrients they require is equal to one calorie of cracked corn.
The simpler their diet, the healthier they will be.
Understanding these seasonal requirements can significantly enhance your flock’s well-being.
For more information on how to manage chickens in winter months, refer to my blog
I also recommend reading my blog on Winter Enrichment Activities.
On the other hand, during summer, provide plenty of shade and fresh water to prevent heat stress.
Avoid giving them treats you believe are cooling, such as watermelon. It contains sugars and does not cool them down by the time it reaches their digestive system.
The best thing you can offer chickens in hot weather is cold water. Place frozen water bottles in their drinkers to help keep them hydrated. Chickens will not drink water that is warmer than their body temperature.
Cold water helps lower their body temperature through Excretory Heat Transfer. As the cold water moves through their digestive system, it is transferred to their droppings, which are then expelled along with the heat. This is why chickens have looser droppings in the summer heat, as they consume more water to help cool their bodies.
It is more important to keep chickens cool in the summer than to worry about them staying warm in the winter. Chickens handle cold better than heat. They are not designed for heat, as they are wearing down jackets year-round and lack sweat glands or other cooling mechanisms.
Please refer to my blog for more information on dealing with chickens in hot weather,
Overlooking the Importance of Flock Integration
There will come a time when you will want to add new birds to your existing flock. In the world of chicken keeping, it's called "Chicken Math." There is a right way and a wrong way to introduce new birds with the least amount of stress for the birds and for your self.
In my blog titled How to Seamlessly Integrate New Chickens into Your Existing Flock
To foster healthy socialization, gradually introduce new birds and monitor the flock dynamics closely. Engaging with your chickens also creates a more enjoyable experience. You may find that spending time among your flock can lead to a stronger bond and better overall health.
Wrapping It Up
Embarking on the adventure of poultry keeping can be incredibly rewarding. However, by recognizing and learning from common mistakes, new poultry keepers can set the stage for a successful flock.
With careful research, proper housing, and proactive care, you can enjoy a thriving poultry experience. Remember, every misstep is a chance to learn and grow. Armed with the right knowledge, you're well on your way to becoming a confident and capable poultry keeper.
I hope this information was helpful for beginners and also provided something valuable for experienced chicken keepers.
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